Category Archives: Residential

Does Your Home Have Traces of Asbestos? Here’s What You Should Do

asbestosThe use of asbestos as insulation remains legal in the United States, albeit highly regulated, according to the Kansas Department of Health and Environment. Despite its proven link that being exposed to asbestos can cause lung cancer and mesothelioma, there have been several failed attempts to implement laws against it.

If you have asbestos fibers in your home, you could be exposing your family to health risks. The asbestos in your home must be dealt with immediately by licensed asbestos contractors and replaced with safer, cost-efficient attic insulation. Identifying asbestos insulation should be left to professionals to reduce potential health risks.

Asbestos and Its Health Hazards

Asbestos is a group of natural minerals which are fire-, electricity-, and soundproof. Because of its low cost and useful properties, it has been used by industries for centuries. However, once it became linked to illnesses such as lung disease and cancer or mesothelioma, organizations began calling for laws to ban its use. These demands, however, have not been successful. There is no asbestos in fiberglass insulation, so it became one of the popular replacements for asbestos.

If your home is old and used to have an asbestos insulator that was removed, you and your family may still be at risk. Asbestos remnants can linger long if not removed by professional or licensed contractors or asbestos removal companies. It is best to have your home checked and your insulation replaced immediately with a safer, cost-efficient material.

What Kind of Insulation Should I Use?

You might be wondering if there is asbestos in blown-in insulation. The fear of bringing asbestos into your home is nothing to laugh about. The experts at A+ Insulation will make sure you get the right insulation that is right for you and your safety.

Many types of insulation are available for asbestos replacement. Consulting an experienced insulation professional such as A+ Insulation will help you determine the alternative to asbestos that would best suit your home. Loose-fill insulation uses a blowing machine to apply the insulation material to the walls or attic. The batt or roll insulation, on the other hand, is attached to a facing which serves as a vapor barrier for heat.

These insulation categories include the following:

  • Insulsafe SP Insulation A fiberglass blown-in insulation used for attic and wall insulation. It’s soundproof and fireproof and can be used in new construction and existing structures.
  • Cellulose Insulation A blown-in insulation that wraps itself around obstructions, making it a good type for attics with many corners and spaces regular insulation cannot fill.
  • Spray Foam Insulation CertaSpray expands to fill in the little spaces.
  • Batted Insulation An affordable type of insulation which is fitted and cut to suit the area it insulates. It is recommended for attics without much obstruction because it needs to be cut to fit around the place, which may cause gaps that allow heat to escape.

Forgoing insulation covers may result in higher energy costs just to warm your home. Insulation keeps the heat inside, keeping the temperature warm on cold days without the constant need for heaters, and cool on warm days.

A+ Insulation offers all these types of insulation, and our customers have found that the right kind of insulation that has allowed them to save at least 30% of their energy bills. Let us give you cost-efficient and effective insulators to warm your home.

Schedule a FREE, no-obligation consultation with A+ Insulation!

Fiberglass Insulation: A High Return Home Renovation

construction-worker-installing-fiberglass-insulationInsulation is an important and necessary addition to any home. An insulation upgrade proves itself to be one of the best improvements homeowners can make because of the return on investment it provides. Fiberglass insulation prices are low compared to other insulation types. For homeowners looking for a relatively inexpensive home renovation project that will increase their comfort and reduce energy costs, installing fiberglass insulation offers quite a compelling argument.

Fiberglass Insulation’s Return on Investment

For two years in a row, Remodeling Magazine and their Cost vs. Value Report has said that fiberglass attic insulation cost is the home remodeling upgrade project that provides the most substantial return on investment for homeowners looking to make some changes. Of all the types of insulation, the average cost of fiberglass insulation is one of the lowest. This trend is becoming well known among homeowners looking for new ways to make small, incremental improvements to their homes while also adding value.

Cost vs. Value Report

In an annual survey sent to real estate professionals across the U.S., realtors estimated that one year after a fiberglass insulation upgrade, homeowners would potentially increase the return on investment of the value of their home by $1,446 at resale. The ‘Cost vs. Value Report’ estimated the average nationwide upgrade cost for adding blown-in loose-fill fiberglass insulation into an attic (35×30) to reach an R-30 insulation value is $1,343. Fiberglass insulation energy cost savings are a hidden gem in home renovation.

Fiberglass Insulation has an  Average National Return of Over 100 Percent

Remodeling Magazine compared the average cost for 29 of the most popular home renovation projects in 99 U.S. markets on both a national and regional outlook. The report states that fiberglass insulation upgrades add the most value to a home, coming in at 108 percent of the cost of the project. 

The average cost and return at resale for the other 29 projects that were included in this year’s report amounted to a 64.3 percent return. Those numbers were counted as long as the home was sold within one year of completing the renovation. Fiberglass insulation was the only project that had an average national return of more than 100 percent.

When to install new insulation

If you can already tell that your insulation is not keeping up with the changes in temperature outside, you probably need to replace your insulation. If you know what kind of insulation you have, you can use the average lifespan to figure out if it’s time to switch. Each type of insulation lasts for different amounts of time, and they can all be damaged by leaky roofs or animals and critters.

If you do not know what kind of insulation you have or when it was replaced, it is in your best interest to get a professional to check your insulation and see if it is still capable of doing its job. The labor costs you can expect to pay will be a lot less than having to get a mold specialist if you leave old insulation for too long.

Professional Installation vs. DIY Costs

Is fiberglass insulation safe to install on your own? A lot of people believe that they can save even more money by installing their insulation themselves. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. 

DIY insulation installers will need the ability to make extremely accurate notes on where heat is lost and purchase the exact amount of insulation you need. You may end up spending more than the entire cost of having a professional contractor install the insulation for you. 

A few other issues DIYers could run into are the need to make changes to their HVAC while putting in their insulation, not having the correct permits, and risky health hazards if they do not have the right equipment to remove their existing insulation.

If you want to reap the rewards and see a return on your investment, have your insulation installed by a professional. It will be much more cost-effective to have it done correctly, and you will avoid potentially expensive mistakes.

Insulation replacement is great for any homeowner looking for an end-of-summer home improvement project that they can have completed. It can be done relatively quickly and not go over their home renovation budget. Installing fiberglass insulation material has proven itself to be one of the best choices you can make.

With our experience in the insulation industry, we can help you save energy and get you the most for your money.

Schedule a FREE consultation with A+ Insulation!

How Quality Insulation Can Keep Pests Out of Your Home

insulation

Insulation helps provide year-round comfort to your household by keeping the indoor air separate from the outdoor air. However, insulation offers several other benefits to homeowners, such as keeping out unwanted pests.

How it Works

Many types of insulation are pre-treated with boric acid or other pest-blocking chemicals that harm the rodent or insect if it digests it. Most insulation materials that are treated for pest control purposes help get rid of common home invaders such as cockroaches and ants. Cockroaches in particular eat almost anything in their sight, so you can easily get rid of them when they eat the treated insulation. Other roaches that come into contact with the affected roach will die as well.

Other Benefits of Insulation

Aside from getting rid of pests, you can reap other benefits when you insulate your home, including the following.

  • Cost-Efficiency. We all know that heat is not cheap. With a better-quality attic barrier, you’ll be able to keep more heat inside of your home during the winter months. Investing in insulation will help you save on energy costs in the long run. It will also keep heat out during the scorching summer days.
  • Increased Comfort. Your home will be more comfortable if you can control and maintain the temperature. Because it affects the entire house, insulation will also ensure that there won’t be any pockets of cold in your residence.
  • Flame Retardant. If a fire gets into your attic, it will have a difficult time spreading to other parts of the house because of insulation’s fire-retardant properties. This could give the fire department enough time to respond to a distress call.
  • Fungi and Mold Resistance. By resisting fungi and mold, insulation can boost the quality of air in your residence. It can also protect the people living in your residence from illnesses caused or aggravated by molds and fungi.

Insulation Types

The following are different kinds of insulation.

  • Spray-foam insulation
  • Cellulose insulation
  • Denim insulation
  • Fiberglass insulation
  • Mineral wool insulation
  • Crawlspace insulation

Spray Foam Insulation

Done with spray holders, spray foam insulation involves the spraying of foam from containers to specific areas of a house. It is best to install spray foam insulation in existing walls, new spaces in walls, or unfinished attics.

Spray foam insulation can keep out mice and other pests that come in through the places where you get the most air leaks, such as crawl spaces, rim joists, or openings in the attic. It helps seal up the crevices and cracks where it is sprayed. This makes it harder for pests to get in.

Another advantage of this type of insulation is that it’s well-suited for both oddly-shaped and finished areas. It also works well when used around obstructions.

Cellulose Insulation

Cellulose insulation is made of tiny pieces of paper broken into fibers. These fibers are treated with a mineral that resists pests. They are also treated with chemicals to make them better at protecting the home from heat and moisture.

Another advantage of opting for cellulose insulation is that it is made up of 85% recycled materials. These are mainly newspapers, although it isn’t unusual to use cardboard or other kinds of paper.

Although made out of paper, this insulation type can also help control the spread of flames. The chemicals it is treated with, along with its ability to fit around obstructions and fill irregularly shaped spaces, make it a great flame retardant. It also works well for attics.

One con of using cellulose insulation is that it is not waterproof. It is prone to accumulating moisture, becoming more vulnerable to rot over time. However, if you are looking for an organic and less-expensive way to insulate your home, cellulose insulation will work well for you.

Denim Insulation

A form of cellulose fiber (cotton), denim insulation is an eco-friendly insulation material that is often treated with borate to provide Class-A fire resistance. It is also usually treated with EPA-registered fungal inhibitors to protect against pests, mold, and mildew.

Fiberglass Insulation

Popular in the building industry because of its light-weight properties and durability, insulation with fiberglass is, as its name implies, made up of thin fibers of glass. By trapping pockets of air, it keeps spaces thermally regulated and insulated against sound transmission between walls or floors.

The material in fiberglass insulation is relatively inexpensive when compared with alternative materials. This insulation type is also easier to install. Even better, it is not flammable and is highly resistant to moisture damage, which makes it more appealing to homeowners.

With the proper equipment, fiberglass can be an easy and cost-effective solution to insulation issues. In recent years, technology advancements have allowed fiberglass insulation to be made in more environmentally friendly ways.

While it has many perks, the fibers that make up fiberglass insulation can irritate the skin and lungs. Homeowners must not be present in their homes during the installation process.

Mineral Wool Insulation

While it has similarities to fiberglass, mineral wool often costs more. It can also be harder to find than fiberglass. Mineral wool comes in loose-fill, meaning it is poured out of bags or blown into the desired area. One of the best advantages of mineral wool insulation is that it can withstand higher temperatures.

Crawlspace Insulation

A crawlspace is an area between the first floor and the ground. Crawlspaces are usually not the first place that people think about when planning to upgrade their insulation.

However, uninsulated crawlspaces can still be a point of origin for problems like musty smells or mold. Mold in particular can be a problem to the health of people with allergies or asthma. Crawlspace insulation can also reduce the presence of critters and bugs.

Understanding R-Values

The resistance of an insulating material to conductive heat flow is measured through its R-value or thermal resistance. A greater R-value means more insulating effectiveness. Factors like the insulation type, its density, and its thickness affect the R-value.

insulation

The R-values of some insulation material also depend on aging, temperature, and moisture accumulation. To calculate the R-value of multilayered installations, simply add the R-values of the individual layers.

When you install more insulation in your home, you increase its R-value and resistance to heat flow. The amount of R-value or insulation you’ll need depends on your cooling and heating system, your climate, and the area of your house you want to insulate.

Insulation Tips

Ready to get your home insulated? Here are some other things to consider.

  • Think about factors like your budget, climate, and home design when selecting the type of insulation for any area of your home.
  • Use higher R-value insulation, like spray foam insulation, on exterior walls so the material takes up less space without compromising its protective properties.
  • To avoid a fire hazard, be careful with how you will place insulation near a recessed light fixture unless the fixture is insulation contact (IC) rated.
  • Follow the installation instructions of the manufacturer.
  • Wear suitable protective gear upon installation.
  • A good and cost-effective way to invest in the comfort of your home is to install insulation in your attic.
  • If your residence still feels too cold during winters or too warm during summers, you might need to put insulation on your exterior walls. While this is usually more expensive, it is a good investment, especially for cold climate areas.

Some Challenges

Insulation provides many benefits for your home, but it isn’t without its challenges. Old insulation can be a hotbed for insects like cockroaches. If your insulation is not properly treated or is outdated, pests can live happily in it for years without you knowing.

A pest infestation doesn’t necessarily mean you have an insulation issue. However, you might still have to add to your insulation or replace it. If you feel uncomfortably hot during the summer or cold in the winter, you might benefit from adding insulation to your attic, walls, or crawlspace. Insulation can also help if you’re tired of paying a lot for your cooling and heating bills.

We recommend calling upon an insulation expert and having them come to your home to perform a full inspection. If your insulation has signs of pests or is simply old, the experts can replace it with new insulation that will keep your home free of pests.

Quality Insulation Services from A+ Insulation

A+ Insulation is a Kansas-based company that offers several insulation-related services. We pride ourselves not only on quality installations but also on quality people and service. Our A+ team is made up of trained and certified installers to ensure that we provide the highest standards in the industry.

Insulation is what we know and do best, but customer service is what we focus on. This is how we’ve gained many loyal customers over the years. Our goal is to make your experience as happy as possible with every step of the insulation process–from evaluation to installation to price.

Take a look at our A+ insulation services!

Purchasing a Home With a Crawl Space? Here’s What You Need to Do

home with crawl space

 

Crawl spaces are the hollow areas set between the ground and the first floor of your house. They are commonly found in homes without basements, with their main purposes being the following.

  • Cost-effectiveness. Leveling the ground before construction can be expensive, but elevating the house and creating a crawl space eliminate this cost.
  • Convenience. Plumbing and electrical systems can be run through the crawl space, making it easier for homeowners to inspect and maintain these systems, as well as more convenient for plumbers and technicians to repair if needed.

Despite these benefits, the crawl space under your house can also be the cause of major complications, including the following.

  • Moisture. Moisture from the ground can seep into the floors, despite the elevation, and rot your home’s wooden support structure or cause mold growth.
  • Heat loss The bare earth in crawl spaces can rob the heat from the warm floor above if not insulated properly.
  • Pests Like most dark and moist areas, crawl spaces attract pests like termites, rats, and raccoons.

The crawl space is often neglected and left to the elements, resulting in the problems stated above. As such, the crawl space must be periodically inspected to avoid the headache of fixing costly problems.

If you’re buying or have recently bought a house with a crawl space, the aforementioned complications are things you must look out for. Luckily, with the right maintenance, such as adding insulation to your crawl space, you can prevent or remedy these problems.

Ventilation

Since moisture is one of the biggest causes of problems within a crawl space, it’s crucial to improve ventilation in the area. With vents, air from the outside can enter the crawl space and prevent moisture buildup.

Crawl space ventilation is actually a part of building codes. According to the International Residential Code (IRC) Section 408

“The under-floor space between the bottom of the floor joists and the earth under any building (except space occupied by a basement) shall have ventilation openings through foundation walls or exterior walls.

The minimum net area of ventilation openings shall be not less than 1 square foot for every 150 square feet of under-floor space area unless the ground surface is covered by Class 1 vapor retarder material.

Where a Class 1 vapor retarder material is used, the minimum net area of ventilation openings shall be not less than 1 square foot for every 1,500 square feet of under-floor space area. One such ventilating opening shall be within 3 feet of each corner of the building.”

This means that for every 150 square feet of space in the crawl space, you must have a square foot vent. For example, if your crawl space measures 30 feet by 30 feet, you need a combined 6 sq. ft. of vent space. You can install either six vents that measure 1 ft x 1 ft or three 1 ft x 2 ft vents.

The following are benefits of ventilating your crawl space.

  • Prevents moisture buildup and wood rot
  • Prevents mold and mildew growth
  • Prevents pipes from freezing in the winter by closing the vents

Encapsulation

A modern alternative to ventilation, crawl space encapsulation uses a heavy-duty moisture barrier to cover every surface of a crawl space, including the entire soil floor, walls, and even the ceiling. The moisture barrier is made from polyethylene material and is waterproof.

Once your crawl space has been completely sealed using moisture barrier sheets, the next step of encapsulation is to control the humidity. Placing a dehumidifier inside the crawl space helps further minimize the moisture that forms in the area.

With the dehumidifier and moisture barrier working together to keep the moisture level in your crawl space low, you can prevent common moisture-related problems from affecting your home.

The following are benefits of encapsulating your crawl space.

  • Prevents mold and mildew buildup
  • Prevents structural damage and wood rot
  • Creates an inhospitable area for pests
  • Improves air quality within the crawl space

Insulation

If ventilation and encapsulation solve one of the biggest problems with crawl spaces, being moisture build-up, insulation is the answer to another issue: heat loss.

Heat loss can occur if your crawl space is made of cold masonry foundation walls and the floor is bare earth. When exposed to outside temperatures, the concrete walls in the crawl space can rob heat from your home, especially if there are hot water pipes and HVAC plumbing routed through it.

insulation concept

Insulation keeps the temperature outside your house from seeping into your indoor spaces. Since the temperature in uninsulated crawl spaces isn’t regulated, the heat of summer and cold of winter can seep up into your home.

As the temperature from the crawl space rises to your first floor, it will take more energy to sufficiently heat or cool your home. Crawl space insulation is the solution to this problem.

There are two types of insulation that are ideal for crawl spaces.

  1. Spray Foam Foundation Insulation
  2. Draped Foundation Insulation

1. Spray Foam Foundation Insulation

This type of insulation uses either water-resistant closed-cell foam or water-absorbent open-cell foam to insulate your floor space. The closed-cell foam is more advisable, especially since moisture is another problem in crawl spaces. With spray foam insulating your floor from your crawl space, the temperature below will not be able to leak or seep through your floors.

2. Draped Foundation Insulation

This form of insulation is best for crawl spaces with limited cavity depth. Fiberglass batts are tacked to the sill plate of your crawl space’s ceiling or the underside of your floor then draped down to the crawl space floor.

The following are benefits of insulating your crawl space.

  • Reduces energy bills
  • Improves HVAC efficiency
  • Improves indoor air quality
  • Creates a more comfortable home

Crawl Space Inspection Checklist

While you have different crawl space maintenance options, as illustrated above, it’s still important to inspect the crawl space before buying a new home. Whether you’re buying a newly constructed house or a previously owned property, make the crawl space an important part of your home inspection.

Wiring issues

Running wires through the crawl space is a technique that makes it easier for homeowners to perform repairs on their electrical systems. However, because the crawl space is rarely checked or maintained, there might be exposed wires or loose connections. Check the condition of the wiring in the crawl space while inspecting the property you’re interested in.

Plumbing issues

Plenty of homeowners choose to make use of their crawl space by running pipes and other parts of the plumbing system through it. However, it can be difficult to detect complications like damaged or leaking pipes. Check for leakage stains or discoloration when inspecting the property.

Drainage issues

If the plumbing issue is that of leaking pipes and the crawl space also has drainage issues, the structural integrity of the property might become compromised. There should be a proper drainage system in the crawl space to prevent flooding and moisture buildup.

Moisture issues

Speaking of moisture buildup, several issues crop up when this happens. Mold can grow along the damp surfaces, the wooden support structures of the house can rot, and pests may be attracted to the space. Look for signs of these when inspecting the crawl space of the property you want to purchase.

Cracks in the foundation

Generally, tiny cracks—those that are less than ¼ of an inch—are not a cause for concern. However, significant separation of the material, usually concrete, on opposite sides of the crack, as well as sagging and sinking foundation, are signs of possible structural problems. It’s important to raise this issue if it comes up during crawl space inspection.

Keep Your Crawl Space Protected

With plenty of complications that can happen within your crawl space, knowing what problems to look out for and how to prevent or fix them is valuable.

Luckily, you don’t have to look far and wide for an insulation services provider. A+ Insulation is Kansas City homeowners’ go-to crawl space insulation expert. With almost two decades of experience, our team has seen all kinds of crawl spaces and the problems that crop up in uninsulated ones.

This is why we are committed to installing quality and long-lasting crawl space insulation for your home. Every one of our insulation projects is tailored to each individual client’s needs. So, whether you want to insulate your crawl space floors or walls, our technicians can get the job done.

Among the crawl space insulation options we offer are…

  1. Spray Foam Foundation Insulation
  2. Draped Foundation Insulation

Our team can inspect your crawl space and advice you on which option is best for your property.

With A+ Insulation as your crawl space insulation partner, you can expect…

  • A free on-site estimate
  • Meticulous insulation installation
  • Professional service

If you have other inquiries or want to schedule a crawl space insulation installation, call us at (913) 281-2250 today.

Take a look at our crawl space insulation services!

Soundproof Your Home and Insulate It: A Guide

sound-system-in-home

 

Sound can be a wonderful thing, but the sound you don’t want to hear is simply noise: a nuisance that makes sleeping, studying, and working practically impossible.

If you’re having a noise problem, the simplest solution is to kill the sound at its source. Unfortunately, that’s not always an option. What if you live near a noisy bar or a construction site? What if your neighbors are too stubborn with their Monday night Karaoke?

No matter what your sound problem is, the solution is clear. You need to soundproof your home, and A+ Insulation can help you do it.

Understanding the mechanics of sound

Before getting into soundproofing, allow us to give you a quick lesson on acoustics.

There are two types of sound: structural and airborne. Structural sounds are vibrations carried through objects, such as a hammer banging on the wall or footsteps on the floor.

On the other hand, airborne sound travels through the air; all sounds your ear picks up are classified as airborne. When structural sound becomes airborne, you hear it. Since these sounds travel differently, you’ll need different tools to address them.

Noise is categorized as an unwanted sound. Sounds other than the ones made by what you’re doing are considered noise.

For instance, if you’re talking on the phone, the television in the next room is noise. Conversely, if you’re watching a movie, a loud phone conversation nearby is also noise. Any unwanted sound is noise.

What makes sound problems difficult to solve? Sound waves travel the least resistant path, which makes finding the sound’s origin difficult. The noise that keeps you up at night may be sound entering the room through an electrical outlet or bouncing around an air vent.

Unwanted noise can also sneak into a room through a window, under a door, or any place that has space or a small hole. Even hanging a photo on a wall can compromise the wall’s soundproofing quality.

So if you’re not a big fan of noise, your best option is to soundproof your home.

What soundproofing does and how it works

To soundproof a room means lowering the intrusion of external noise while insulating the space to prevent noise from escaping the room.

music-recording-studio

In most cases, acoustic insulation is used to soundproof recording studios to prevent outside noise from interfering while an artist records their music, sound effects, or dialogue.

Soundproofing solutions block anything from nearby building work to voices to high levels of traffic noise. It also ensures outside parties and other neighbors are not disturbed by the activities inside the soundproofed room.

In recent years, many homeowners insulate and soundproof certain rooms or their entire home in response to noise from pedestrians, traffic, or loud neighbors.

How does soundproofing work?

Soundproofing tackles the two ways in which sound travels.

First, airborne noise poses a problem when a home has poorly-insulated and thin walls that have gaps in them (e.g. plug sockets). The lack of insulation encourages the sound to freely travel through the gaps in the wall without being absorbed.

Soundproofing against airborne noise involves adding and dampening mass, which can be done by sealing up doors, floors, walls (often the main suspect), and ceilings, as well as adding insulation to keep airborne noise at bay.

Second, impact noise is a problem in homes where there are uninterrupted connections between houses or rooms in your home. For instance, if your brick wall doesn’t have a cavity, the sound’s vibrations will travel through the wall from one side to the other.

Addressing impact noise involves decoupling (creating small gaps) to disrupt the sound’s vibration flows. Adding mass with rubber insulation will absorb the remaining sound vibrations.

Soundproofing and insulation go hand-in-hand

Homeowners who want to achieve two goals with one home improvement project soundproof their homes with insulation.

soundproofed-home-theater

The primary functions of insulation are to keep your home insulated and energy-efficient at all times, but it can also help you with noise problems.

Stopping sound waves from traveling from one room to another requires a quality insulation material between the source of the noise and the other area to absorb the noise’s vibrations and envelop it.

This is how insulation “soaks up” up the noise pollution, stopping it from intruding into your home.

In many cases, properly-engineered insulation systems reduce the noise of loud equipment, systems, and pipes. There are three major ways to soundproof a room.

  • Sound absorption. This soundproofing technique, which uses acoustic insulation or dense foam, is the most common method used to absorb the sound inside of a room. Insulation slabs, for example, directly absorb the sound waves, which reduce the noise traveling through the walls.
  • Decoupling technique. It removes a wall structure from another to lower the levels of sound vibration traveling from one room to another. Professional insulators fill the space between the two with acoustic insulation, depending on how much sound is being emitted, as well as on the thickness of the walls. Building a wall within the wall enables clear transmission of sound waves.
  • Noise blocking. Another soundproofing option is to add more mass to the structure to reflect the sound energy into the room. Noise blocking can also convert noise into heat.

A note on insulation and soundproofing

Not every type of insulation reduces noise. For instance, reflective insulation, often installed in residential areas located in warmer climates, insulates the home by reflecting heat from the sun.

Radiant insulation barriers are often installed in the attic and under the roof, keeping your home comfortable and cool all year round. However, it doesn’t serve as an effective sound barrier.

spray-foam-insulation

If you’re looking for soundproofing insulation, choose foam insulation, fiberglass, and blown-in cellulose. These can be installed in the ceilings, floors, and walls of your home.

Apart from insulating your home, these materials can reduce the noise within and outside of your home. They create tight barriers that seal gaps that sound can travel through. Also, these insulation types are extremely noise-absorbent, ensuring no sound can escape.

Fiber insulation materials are good for thermal purposes, but they are not dense enough to offer high levels of noise absorption. However, when used in conjunction with acoustic roll products (which can be installed inside the wall), fiber insulation can significantly reduce the transfer of noise.

A rule of thumb on insulation and soundproofing: the denser the insulating material, the harder it is for the sound waves to remain audible. Use acoustic insulation on your ceilings, walls, and floors to ensure dampened sound.

Which rooms need soundproofing the most?

Your choice of rooms depends on the type of noise you want to block, as well as the layout of your home. As a general rule, soundproof the room closest to the sound source.

In most cases, homeowners spend the majority of their time at home in the bedroom to relax or sleep for several hours overnight. Other homeowners tend to spend their time in the living room during the evening. Also, most master bedrooms and living rooms are positioned at the front of the house, often the bedroom on top of the living room.

If exterior noise is your primary concern, soundproof your living room and bedroom. If loud neighbors are your concern, soundproof the room adjacent, above or below the source of the noise.

Other soundproofing and insulation tips

First, when soundproofing a room, start with the walls. Insulate the interior walls and soundproof them by filling the wall cavity with sustainable insulation. To stop the noise transfer between walls, fill the cavities between the exterior and interior walls.

If you don’t have the luxury of building a new room but still want a place of quiet, there are a few quick ways to soundproof your room.

  • Soften the surfaces. Add plush furniture, carpeting, plants and window trimming to promote quiet.
  • Seal the entrances. Gaps under the doors allow unwanted noise; the same applies to vents and electrical outlets. Properly sealing a room gives you quiet.

Insulate and soundproof your home with help from A+ Insulation!

If you want to insulate and soundproof your home, you can always choose a DIY approach, but if you want better results, it’s best to leave the job to the professionals.

Here at A+ Insulation, we offer superior insulation services that reduce the noise in and around your home. In our opinion, the best soundproofing insulation is spray foam, which provides A+ thermal insulation and soundproofing.

Our team has installed soundproof insulation for nurseries, children’s rooms, offices, and home movie theaters. We also cater to commercial property needs, as well as offer guidance on company offices and soundproofing conference rooms.

By using porous and light materials, both inside the drywall and on top of surfaces, we prevent sound from moving in and out of your home. Apart from keeping your home cozy, our soundproof insulation gives you peace and quiet.

Take a look at our comprehensive insulation services!

Garage Insulation: Everything You Need to Know

man installing garage door

Many homeowners make the mistake of not insulating their garages. They think of their garage not as an extension of their house but as an extension of the outside, so they choose to skip the insulation.

However, attached garages are notorious energy guzzlers. The heat from the adjacent room can seep through the shared wall and into the garage. The heat transfer can also happen inversely, meaning the garage can bring in heat from the outside and into the house. These two scenarios force your HVAC system to work twice as hard, resulting in higher energy costs.

It is very important that you insulate your garage. The results may not be immediately visible, but your utility bills will thank you for it in the long run.

When it comes to garage insulation, the first thing you should do is to look at the different types of insulating material that are available.

Types of Garage Insulation

There are four primary insulating materials to choose from: fiberglass, cellulose, rigid foam, and spray foam. Each has its own advantages and applications.

Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass is the most popular insulation material for garages. It comes in pre-cut batts, rolls, or blankets. Fiberglass is also available as loose-fill insulation, although this is mostly used in unfinished attics.

Fiberglass insulation is relatively cheap, which is why it’s popular. You can make a DIY project out of the installation if you’re choosing fiberglass batts since it’s easy to install. This insulation type is ideal for unfinished walls, floors, and ceilings.

Rigid Foam Insulation

Rigid foam or foam board insulation comes in stiff panels made from polystyrene, polyurethane, or polyisocyanurate. It offers a high R-value despite its thinness and can be cut to fit almost any space.

The best thing about foam board is that it’s the only type of insulation that blocks heat transfer through structural elements.

Rigid foam insulation is a good option if you’re planning to convert your garage into a living space. The foam would be installed under plywood or another wall or subfloor material.

Be sure to check the foam’s fire rating. Some types of rigid foam aren’t fire-resistant, which means they’re not suitable for exposed applications.

Cellulose Insulation

Cellulose insulation often comes as loose-fill. It’s made from recycled newspaper treated with a fire retardant, making it an eco-friendly option.

The contractor will use a special blowing machine to fluff up the insulating material and blow it into the space. You have the choice to rent a blower at a rental store if you want to do the insulation yourself. Some home centers will also loan the machine to you for free if you buy cellulose from them.

However, cellulose insulation is only applicable for unfinished garage walls and ceilings, since it’s loose-fill. If your garage is already finished, the contractor will cut strategic holes in the walls then spray the material between the framing members. They’ll patch the gaps afterward.

Spray Foam Insulation

Spray foam insulation is the best option for homeowners because of its high insulating value and air-sealing capacity. The contractor sprays the insulating material, which creates a solid barrier that blocks air and moisture gaps.

Spray foam insulation can be expensive though, so it may not be the most cost-efficient choice to insulate your garage. However, it’s an excellent option if you’re turning your garage into a full-time living space.

When choosing your garage insulation, it’s best to consult a contractor to make sure you’re picking the most suitable one for your needs. Describe your garage and how you plan to use the space to help your contactor make an accurate recommendation.

Alongside the walls, ceiling, and floor, you also have to insulate your garage door. Attached garages with uninsulated doors can decrease the efficiency of your HVAC system, especially since garage doors are often made from metal.

Garage Door Insulation

large garage 2 doorsWhether or not you should insulate your garage door depends on how you use your garage. If you open and close the door several times a day, then there’s no point in insulating it. The frequent movement will just let out the heat you’re trying to keep inside the room. Additionally, the repeated motion can cause the insulating material to flake and pull apart.

However, if you’re using your garage as a workspace, then an insulated door is a worthwhile investment.

Insulated garage doors hold less heat than uninsulated ones, so they’re better at maintaining the temperature of the room. Plus, the insulation helps reduce noise pollution. It’s an effective soundproofing material, which is perfect if you want to turn your garage into a studio or office.

How to Insulate Your Garage Door

The best way to insulate your garage door is to buy one that’s already insulated. This saves you the trouble of having to install the installation. However, if you want to add insulation to your current garage door, you can purchase an insulation kit at home centers.

Garage door insulation kits come in two options: fiberglass batts or polystyrene rigid foam panels. The first option offers an insulating value of R-8. You only need to tape the material to the inside surface of the door.

The rigid foam kit, on the other hand, has an R-4 insulating value. The panels are cut to length, so you only need to snap them into place, between the horizontal rails on the door panels.

Just like in other parts of your house, garage insulation needs to be supplemented with air-sealing to achieve maximum energy efficiency. Air gaps might be letting out heat or letting in drafts, reducing the performance of your insulation.

How to Air-Seal Your Garage

Garages aren’t built to be airtight, so yours likely has air leaks if you haven’t insulated it yet. These gaps can let in cold air, which can seep into the attached rooms. The EPA says that air-sealing your garage can cut an estimated 15 percent off your heating and cooling costs.

Follow these steps to properly air-seal your garage.

1. Weatherstrip the Door Connecting the Garage to the House

Air-seal around the entire door frame on both sides. To check for air leaks, turn on the lights in the garage then exit. Turn the lights off on the other side of the door, then inspect the doorframe to see if any light comes through. If it does, that means you have air leaks.

You can seal wide air gaps using felt tape or self-adhesive foam. For tiny leaks, you can use a caulk gun to cover them up.

2. Caulk the Joints Connecting the Walls to the Floor

The soil under the garage is prone to shrinkage because of how it was built. When this happens, the floor moves, shrinks, or swells, which shifts the joints connecting the walls and the floor. This movement causes gaps in the joints, letting outside air into the garage.

Cover the cracks using a latex- or silicone-based caulk or a foam sealant. The ground never stops moving so be sure to check the joints between the walls and the floor at least once a year.

3. Insulate the Outlets and Light Switches

The holes in your garage wall holding the light switches and outlets aren’t always cut perfectly. There’s a big possibility that there are tiny cracks around these lighting components. You may think that the gaps won’t do much harm because they’re so tiny, but even the smallest leaks can be bad for your home.

Aside from cold or hot garage air leaking into your home, there’s also the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. The fumes from your vehicle can travel through the small cracks on your walls and enter your home without your knowledge.

You can insulate outlets, wall switches, and electrical boxes using spray foam or rigid foam. Seal around the box or switch using the same caulk you used for the floor-to-wall joints.

4. Weather-Seal the Garage Door

You need to weather-seal your garage door to maximize the insulation’s energy efficiency. The door’s bottom edge, top, sides and the threshold might have gaps that let in outside air. You can use a strip of vinyl or rubber to seal around the door.

5. Seal the Cracks on the Floor

Garage floors are prone to cracks. The damage can be due to improper installation, poor drainage, or shrinkage. Regardless of the reason, these cement cracks can leak cold air from the ground. Worse, if water constantly enters these gaps, the water can freeze and expand, causing foundation upheaval.

For small cracks, you can simply use an epoxy concrete crack filler. But if the damage is too big for a filler, you need to remove the broken concrete and undercut the crack’s edges. Use sand mixed with an adhesive additive to patch the gap. Then, use a trowel to level the surface. Once it dries, grind down the area until it’s level with the rest of the floor.

The key to properly insulating your garage is to get an energy audit beforehand. This assessment will identify the spots in your house that guzzle energy. It will also recommend solutions for each problem area, helping you reduce your utility bills.

Insulate Your Garage with A+ Insulation

A+ Insulation offers a wide range of insulation solutions for different parts of your home, including your garage. Our experienced contractors ensure that your garage is well insulated and air-sealed to achieve maximum energy efficiency.

Schedule an appointment for a FREE home energy assessment!

Insulation and Ventilation: Why Your Attic Needs Both

empty attic

Every homeowner knows the importance of insulation. It helps you maintain your preferred indoor temperature, keeping your energy bills from soaring during the summer or winter months.

However, not many people are aware that you’re not supposed to go overboard with your insulation. Yes, there is such a thing as over-insulation. This happens when the insulating material clogs the spaces meant for ventilation. Over-insulation can result in an uncomfortably hot room, poor indoor air quality, and even mold growth.

You may be wondering: Why is ventilation important when you’re supposed to air-seal your home? It’s because ventilation works with your insulation to maintain your home’s indoor environment, making the house more energy-efficient.

Unfinished attics, especially, need proper ventilation. Warm air naturally rises from the lower parts of your house up to the attic. If your attic isn’t ventilated, the heat will get trapped in the room, raising the temperature. Ventilation allows excess heat to escape from your home, keeping the inside of your house cooler during the warm season

The Importance of Attic Ventilation

Ventilation has two main purposes: to promote airflow and to reduce moisture inside the house. Both of these functions help increase the efficacy of your insulation system, keeping your attic dry but not hot.

Improving Airflow with Ventilation

Your attic must be well-insulated, but there are spots that you should leave uninsulated. The hollows between rafters, for instance, must be left uncovered to allow airflow.

At the same time, you have to air-seal your attic. Gaps and cracks in the attic can let air in from the outside or leak energy from inside the house. When either of these two happen, your HVAC system will have to work twice as hard to maintain your preferred indoor temperature.

One popular form of attic ventilation is the soffit vent. Soffit vents are located on the underside of the roof, the part that sticks out over your house. In a properly ventilated attic, the soffit vents draw fresh air from the outside. The air then goes through the baffle to circulate throughout the attic, then exits through another form of ventilation like a ridge vent or a gable vent.

Soffit vents are designed to promote airflow, churning out the stale air in your attic to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. This controlled motion of airflow helps prevent condensation, which is a major cause of mold growth.

Reducing Moisture with Ventilation

Indoor humidity makes rooms feel uncomfortable. Common signs of excessive air moisture are foggy windows, a mildewy smell, and a heavy, clammy feel on the skin. If you notice these things in your home, then you might be having ventilation problems.

Insulation is the number one defense against attic humidity. The insulating material prevents moisture from seeping into different surfaces in the attic.

However, even if your attic is adequately insulated, that doesn’t mean that the room is completely immune to moisture. Air goes stale when it doesn’t circulate. A buildup of stale air in the attic can increase humidity levels, making your attic feel uncomfortably hot and stuffy.

Also, activities like bathing and washing clothes raise the amount of water in the air. Stale air and the moisture content of household activities need a way out of your house. Otherwise, they’ll contribute to your indoor humidity.

This is why you have to supplement your insulation system with proper ventilation. Ventilation keeps the air in your attic moving to prevent moisture from accumulating. However, you have to control all the air current routes to keep unwanted air from entering your house. Letting in too much outside air can affect the efficiency of your HVAC system.

Ultimately, the key to managing attic humidity levels is adequate ventilation and air-sealing to control airflow. Below are some tips on how to improve your attic ventilation without interfering with your insulation’s performance.

How You Can Improve Attic Ventilation

attic insulation

The general rule for ventilating unfinished attics is that air must be able to enter and exit the room to maintain a healthy flow. The Federal Housing Administration recommends one sq. ft. of ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. of attic space.

Intake Vents 

Intake vents, or the vents where outside air enters, are typically located along the soffit of the house. You can choose from the following soffit vent options.

Rectangular Soffit Vents 

These are the most popular form of attic ventilation due to their fast, easy installation. You can install them without professional assistance, reducing the upfront costs. The vents are also affordable.

Installing rectangular soffit vents is as simple as cutting the holes and screwing the vent into place. First, mark the roof vent position from the attic. You should be able to see the rafters to avoid placing vents over them. If your soffit runs parallel to the street, place the vents on the backside to make them less prominent.

Use a jigsaw to cut the holes. Make sure to space the vents evenly to distribute air properly in the attic. 

Continuous Soffit Vents

Continuous soffit vents are more narrow than rectangular ones. They run the entire length of the soffit, allowing more air to enter. They’re more suitable for soffits that are less than 16 inches wide.

This kind of vent has a similar installation process to rectangular vents. However, you may need assistance in fitting them. The length of continuous vents makes them tricky to install.

The problem with soffit vents is that your attic insulation might be blocking the spaces between the rafters above the exterior walls. This prevents air from flowing from the soffit vents to the roof vents.

One solution is to install baffles. These prevent vents from getting clogged by insulating material. They’re like chutes that provide a clear channel for outside air to move into the attic. Baffles can be challenging to install, though, so have a professional do it for you.

Exhaust Vents

Exhaust vents suck out air to create a continuous current. You can have them placed on your roof or gables, depending on the design and orientation of your house.

Ridge Vents

Ridge vents are continuous vents that span the entire length of your roof. They provide maximum ventilation since you have to cut open the entire ridge of the roof. That said, you can’t DIY your ridge vents because you might accidentally saw through an inner beam, which can affect your roof’s structural integrity.

Roof Vents

Roof vents are the cylindrical contraptions found on top of houses. They’re installed as close as possible to the roof’s ridge. Although many people find them unattractive, roof vents are very effective at dispelling hot air from the house.

If you’re concerned about your home’s visual appeal, you can go for a square roof vent that’s less conspicuous. However, the spherical models offer much more powerful ventilation capability. These have lightweight fan blades that are propelled by wind, increasing the flow of air exiting the roof.

Roof vents, whether square or spherical, follow the same installation process. 

Gable Vents

These vents are placed in the triangular spaces on either end of your house. They’re easier to install compared to roof or ridge vents since you don’t have to deal with shingles or roof beams. Gable vents also don’t require as much waterproofing because they’re vertical and less exposed to the elements.

However, gable events don’t meet the standard square foot requirements to thoroughly ventilate an attic. They should only be used to supplement your roof vents.

Fans

The last ventilation option is an attic fan. Fans function as both intake and exhaust vents. They use electricity to move air in and out of the house, greatly improving your attic’s ventilation performance.

Just like gable vents, fans alone aren’t enough to adequately ventilate your attic. Most homeowners use attic fans to supplement their gable or roof vents and improve their ventilation.

You can purchase attic fans as a unit, including the vents, but you can also buy them separately if you already have vents installed.

The disadvantage of attic fans is the additional monthly cost of operating them. However, fans prevent heat traps in the attic, which can result in a cooler house. This means your HVAC system won’t have to work as hard to maintain your preferred indoor temperature, resulting in lower energy bills.

To determine if your attic needs better ventilation, conduct an energy evaluation on your home. This examination can detect poor indoor air quality and assess your ventilation and insulation. The audit will let you know how you can make your house more energy-efficient and reduce your electricity spending.

A+ Service from A+ Insulation

A+ Insulation is a trusted insulation expert in Kansas City. We offer a range of insulation treatments for different parts of your home, including the attic. Our experienced insulation professionals will ensure that your attic is well-ventilated and air-sealed to prevent moisture problems.

Schedule an appointment for a FREE home energy assessment!

Spray Foam Insulation: Why It’s the Best Option for Homeowners

insulation-process

When it comes to lowering your energy consumption, online articles often tell you to invest in high-performing home insulation. But insulation comes in various materials, with multiple application methods. Not many online articles describe the difference between the kinds of insulation available and specify which one offers the most advantage in terms of energy reduction.

Types of Insulation

Blanket

Blanket insulation is the most common type of insulation. The material comes in pre-cut rolls or batts, which are usually made from plastic fibers, natural fibers, fiberglass, or mineral wool. The insulation batts are relatively cheap, easy to transport, and easy to install. This is why blanket insulation is popular amongst do-it-yourselfers.

Insulation batts and rolls are ideal for floors, ceilings, unfinished walls, and attics with standard stud and joist spacing.

The problem with blanket insulation is that it can rip easily. Also, it’s difficult to insulate tight corners, nooks, and crannies because of the size of the batts and rolls.

Foam Board

Foam board insulation involves the installation of rigid panels of insulation. Often made from polyurethane, polystyrene, or polyisocyanurate, foam board insulation can be used in any part of the home. The boards have a high insulating value despite their thinness, so they can be used on ceilings, floors, unfinished walls, and even unvented low-slope roofs.

One advantage of foam boards is that it’s the only type of insulation that blocks thermal conduction through structural elements.

Loose-Fill

Loose-fill or blown-in insulation uses specialized pneumatic equipment to fill an area with fluffy insulation material, usually mineral wool, fiberglass, or cellulose. This type of insulation is best for hard-to-reach and irregularly shaped areas, including spaces with obstructions. Open wall cavities and attic floors are common locations for loose-fill insulation.

However, the effectiveness of blown-in insulation diminishes over time as the material settles and loses its fluff. It also holds moisture, which can cause mold and reduce its insulating power.

Reflective Insulation

Reflective insulation works differently than other types of insulation. Instead of reducing heat flow in your home, it uses reflective materials to bounce heat away from the structure. Foil and film are the most popular materials used for reflective insulation.

The films or foils are often fitted on joists, beams, rafters, and other areas where heat is likely to enter a house. Although this insulation method can be installed as DIY projects, professional assistance is still recommended to ensure its effectiveness.

However, reflective insulation doesn’t perform well in cold climates.

Spray Foam

Spray foam insulation is pressure sprayed on the surface, creating a solid barrier that effectively covers air and moisture gaps. You can choose between open-cell foam, which expands to fill any cavity, or closed-cell foam, which retains bubble integrity to create an impenetrable seal.

You can use spray foam insulation for any part of the house, including hard-to-reach areas. However, this insulation method is the most expensive out of the five mentioned.

Comparing the pros and cons of each insulation type, spray foam insulation stands out as the clear winner. The only downside to spray foam insulation is the cost since it tends to be more expensive than other types. However, this insulation method can give you more cost savings in the long run, so its advantages greatly outweigh its disadvantages.

Benefits of Spray Foam Installation

Spray polyurethane foam offers the following advantages, increasing your ROI on the installation fee.

1. Higher R-Values

Spray foam insulation boasts the highest R-value, or insulating power, among all insulation methods. Closed-cell foam has an R-value of around 6.5 to 7 per inch. Since the foam retains its shape, it’s more solid and offers higher resistance to heat.

Open-cell foam is spongier and less dense than its closed-cell counterpart, so it has a lower R-value. Even then, its R-value of 3.8 per inch is still similar to the rating of popular insulating materials like fiberglass batts and loose cellulose.

Make sure to have a spray foam insulation contractor do the installation for you. This method requires specialized tools and skills to ensure that the insulation performs as it should.

 2. Air and Moisture Barrier

Polyurethane spray foam pushes itself into the tiniest spaces and crevices, sealing all air and moisture leaks. Other types of insulation, like blanket or foam board, don’t have this capability.

This air and moisture barrier makes spray foam insulation even more effective at reducing your energy consumption. By air-sealing your home, this form of insulation prevents heat loss due to drafts. Air-sealing can save you up to 15 percent of your heating and cooling costs, according to the Environmental Protection Agency.

On top of providing a solid, impervious barrier, spray foam insulation is also resistant to water. The foam retains its properties no matter how wet it gets, unlike other insulation materials that need to be replaced immediately when they get wet.

 3. Better Indoor Air Quality

One of the benefits of polyurethane spray foam is better indoor air quality. Because the foam seals all cracks and crevices, it doesn’t allow unwanted outside air to flow into the house. This reduces the chances of the breeze carrying pollen and allergens into your room, which is a huge advantage if you’re living with someone with allergies or respiratory conditions.

Spray foam insulation also protects your house from pest infestation. Bugs, insects, and small rodents can’t get into your home since the gaps in the floors, ceiling, and walls are barricaded by the foam.

Also, spray foam minimizes the growth of mold and mildew. Since the material is water-resistant, the foam prevents moisture build-up, which is what mildew needs to grow.

 4. Enhanced Structural Integrity

home renovation

With its density and hardness, closed-cell foam insulation can fortify the structure of your house. Spray foam insulation adheres to surfaces, enhancing the structure’s overall integrity.

Thus, insulating your attic can help your roof and ceiling become more resistant to storms and extreme weather conditions.

Additionally, some types of spray foam insulation offer fire resistance. There are foam insulation applications that are fire retardant. This means the insulation material slows down the spread of flames, which prevents fire from growing. This fire-resistant property is especially helpful in locations that experience a lot of wildfires.

5. Soundproofing

Spray foam is the best type of insulation for sound-proofing your house. Sound from the outside usually travels indoors through the gaps in your doors and walls. Spray foam blocks these spaces and absorbs sound waves, making it an effective method for noise reduction.

If you only need to block low-frequency noise, open-cell foam should be enough for your soundproofing needs. For medium- and high-frequency sounds, go for denser closed-cell foam.

Now that you know how advantageous spray foam insulation is, it’s time to think about how you’ll apply it to your house. According to the Department of Energy (DOE), your home should be adequately insulated from the roof down to the foundation for maximum energy efficiency.

The Areas You Should Insulate in Your Home

Attic

If your attic isn’t properly insulated, heat can leave your house through any cracks and crevices. In the summer, attic insulation keeps outside heat from entering your home. The DOE says that proper attic insulation can help you save up to 20 percent on your energy bills.

Spray foam makes the best attic insulation. The material takes the shape of any space or room, which is perfect for attics with irregular designs or protruding joists and beams.

Walls

Insulation on exterior walls provides air and moisture barriers, protects your house from water damage, and reinforces your home’s structural integrity. This insulation is responsible for maintaining your indoor temperature at a comfortable level.

Interior wall insulation, on the other hand, isn’t as common. Although, it does offer many benefits. For one, insulating interior walls before covering them with drywall prevents heat from leaking into adjacent rooms. This is beneficial for modern homes with thin walls. Soundproofing insulation also goes onto interior walls.

Basement

Many homeowners skip insulating their basement. However, basements are prone to cracks and gaps that cause water and air leaks. These leaks can result in moisture problems as well as pest infestation, mold growth, and more serious structural issues.

Insulating your basement seals up these cracks. On top of making your house more energy-efficient, insulation keeps your basement dry and comfortable. This is necessary if you’re planning to use your basement as a living space.

With these benefits and applications, spray foam insulation really gives you your money’s worth. Although it requires sizable payment upfront, the spray foam’s energy efficiency and durability will afford you better cost savings in the long run.

Again, we don’t encourage installing spray foam insulation by yourself. It’s best to have a professional contractor do it for you to maximize the foam’s insulating power. Work with a reputable spray foam insulation installer to ensure the quality of the service.

Top-Notch Spray Foam Insulation in Kansas City

A+ Insulation is a trusted insulation expert in Kansas City. Offering A+ services, our team uses quality materials and tools to evaluate your home’s energy efficiency. We’ll audit your house and recommend the ideal insulation solution, making sure that it’s adequately protected from excessive heat gain and loss.

Schedule a FREE appointment, so we can determine the way to insulate your home!

Preparing for the First Freeze: Practical Tips to Do at Home

Fall is officially here. With the temperature dropping, this is the perfect time to prepare your home for winter. Even if you live in an area that barely gets snow, it’s important to weatherize your home. The winter cold can cause all sorts of damage to your house, and your energy bills are likely to double if you’re not prepared.

Get your winterizing done before the temperature drops any lower. It’s not fun to do these chores when it’s already freezing outside. This checklist will help you winterize your house to make sure you’ve got everything covered before the cold sets in.

Insulation

Proper insulation is an essential element of weatherization that can improve your home’s comfort and energy efficiency. Serious insulation upgrades are reserved for the warmer months since your house needs to be carefully evaluated for heat resistance first. Some insulation contractors offer energy evaluations to determine areas in your home that aren’t adequately insulated.

In the meantime, these are some things you can do to make sure that your insulation is ready for winter:

man putting insulation in the ceiling

Check Your Attic Insulation

The attic is one of the biggest sources of energy loss in homes due to the phenomenon called the “stack effect.” Warm air tends to rise, and it can leak through your roof if your attic isn’t insulated well. The stack effect forces your heating system to work twice as hard to keep your house at your preferred indoor temperature.

Make sure your attic is solidly insulated, leaving no room for air leaks. Loose-fill insulation is the best insulation for attics. The material conforms to any space and shape without disturbing the finishes of the walls and ceilings.

Insulate Your Water Heater

The Department of Energy (DOE) recommends insulating older water heaters with insulating blankets. It can cut your standby heat losses by 25 to 45 percent, saving you 7 to 16 percent on your annual water heating costs.

For electric water heaters, you can also put an insulation board underneath the tank. It helps prevent heat loss into the floor, saving you four to nine percent of water heating energy.

Most new hot water tanks are already insulated, so you can skip this step if you’ve recently upgraded your heater.

Seal Unused Fireplaces

Wood-burning fireplaces and chimneys can be major sources of air leaks and drafts during the winter. Even if the damper is closed, the flue can still let cold air into the house. So, it’s better to seal it instead to block the air leaks.

You can purchase a chimney balloon or chimney pillow to seal your fireplace. Another option is to cut out a piece of insulating foam board seal and place it just under the damper. To ensure that the board cut-out is snug, you first want to measure each side of the opening and draw the cardboard pattern.

Remember to remove the seal before using the fireplace to prevent accidents.

Heating System

Other than your insulation, your heating system is another critical element in winterizing your home. Check your furnace and other heating appliances no later than the end of October to give you ample time to inspect and address any problems. Give your heating system a test run to make sure everything’s operating as it should.

  • Schedule seasonal maintenance Have your heating system checked and serviced by a heating contractor to keep it in tip-top shape all year. They’ll let you know if any component needs a replacement or repairs. This is also an excellent time to inspect your air ducts and ensure that they’re not clogged.
  • Replace the air filter It’s good practice changing your air filter every season, especially if you’re using the 1- to 2-inch kind. A new, clean filter will ensure the flow of quality indoor air inside your house. Each furnace has different requirements for filters, so make sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.
  • Test your furnace and thermostat Test the thermostat by turning it to heat mode and setting it to 80 degrees. The furnace should turn on within a few minutes and you should feel warm air beginning to blow. If the furnace takes too long to run or there’s any other problem, you can try to diagnose it yourself. You may also call a qualified service technician to be sure.
  • Check for carbon monoxide leaks Most furnaces are gas-burning and produce carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide leaks are typically a result of leakages in the furnace’s exhaust system or other fuel-burning appliances. Carbon monoxide is dangerous when inhaled, causing damage to vital organs like the heart and lungs. Luckily, you can easily detect leaks using a battery-operated alarm or detector badge.

Water Pipes

Plumbing is susceptible to freezing or bursting because metal pipes are good thermal conductors. Frozen pipes interfere with the water flow, making it difficult to do everyday tasks. In addition, pipes that burst due to freezing can lead to expensive repairs. Prevent these problems by insulating your plumbing.

  • Insulate exposed pipes Inspect your home for any exposed water or drainpipes, especially those in uninsulated places. Don’t forget to check your attic, crawlspace, basement, and outside walls. Wrap the exposed pipes with electrical heating tape followed by foam insulating sleeves.
  • Insulate exterior faucets Shut off the water supply for your exterior faucets, then drain the water from them. Otherwise, the water that remains inside the pipes can freeze and burst. Disconnect your garden hoses from the taps and drain them as well before storing them properly. You may also put an insulated cover on the faucet for added frost protection.

If you’re going away for the winter, remember to drain your home’s plumbing system and shut off the water supply. Otherwise, a leak could happen while you’re away. You wouldn’t be able to address it immediately, and the damage can be disastrous.

water pipes

Roof and Gutters

The roof and gutter system are also essential areas when winterizing your house. Any neglected damage on the roof can cause water or air leaks. Clogged gutters can increase the chances of forming ice dams, which are a damaging winter roofing problem.

  • Inspect the roof for damaged or missing shingles and have them replaced.
  • Check the chimney flashing for damage since it’s a common source of leaks. If the caulking has seen better days, that means it’s time to renew the flashing seals.
  • Clean out your gutters and downspouts. Wet leaves and debris can increase the chances of ice dams. They also add a lot of weight to the gutters, which increases the risk of damage.
  • Consider replacing your gutters if they’re old. Go for seamless gutters. These are less likely to leak than traditional sectional gutters.

If you have a flat roof surfaced with asphalt and pebbles, blow off all the leaves and debris that can hold moisture. However, don’t sweep away the pebbles. They shield the asphalt from direct sunlight.

Doors and Windows

The caulking around doors and windows wears out over time. It creates gaps and holes that let drafts into the house, decreasing your heating system’s efficiency. A simple remedy is weatherstripping, which seals the gaps around doors and windows. The DOE says that sealing air leaks can save you at least 20 percent on heating and cooling expenses.

  • Inspect the outside molding on doors and windows for missing or damaged caulking. Use exterior-grade caulk to seal any gaps you find.
  • Check the weatherstripping around the doors, especially on the bottom. Replace if necessary.
  • Do the incense stick method to check for air leaks. On a windy day, hover a lighted incense stick near the sides of your closed windows and doors. If the smoke trail moves, it means you have an air leak. Use rope caulking to reseal the gaps.
  • Inspect the locking mechanisms on your windows. Make sure they move smoothly. Otherwise, they may be difficult to operate once the cold sets in.
  • Clean the window tracks to ensure that the windows slide smoothly.
  • Re-glaze older windows with cracked or missing glazing putty.

Landscape, Garden, and Outdoor Amenities

Your yard also needs to be prepped for winter, especially if you’re maintaining a flower bed or vegetable garden. Follow these standard lawn winterizing procedures to make sure your yard is ready to grow again come spring.

  • Harvest your final batch of fruits and vegetables. Remove all old plant matter to prevent plant diseases in the next growing season.
  • Plant a cover crop for large garden beds to protect the topsoil from the cold temperature. If you have small beds, applying mulch would be enough.
  • Stop watering your trees and shrubs in the early fall to winterize them. It causes them to prepare for fall and stops the growth of new leaves that won’t be hardy enough to survive winter. Once the leaves dropped and before the ground freezes, water your trees and shrubs deeply to give them one last soak before the temperature drops.
  • Winterize your sprinkler system by shutting off the water and draining the pipes. You can do this yourself or have a lawn service handle it.
  • Reseal your wooden deck to make it more resistant to winter damage.
  • Drain the gas from your lawn mower before storing it in a safe, dry area.
  • Cover or store your patio furniture.

This long list of chores may seem like too much work, but they’re worth doing if it means protecting your house from winter damage. Take the time to winterize your home to ensure that everything is in working order when spring comes again.

Home Insulation for Winter

A+ Insulation is a trusted insulation expert in Kansas City. We use premium tools and materials when examining your home’s insulating capacity to develop the best solutions to make it more energy-efficient. We offer a range of insulation solutions for your entire house to protect every room from heat and energy loss.

Contact us today to schedule a free, no-obligation home energy assessment.

Reasons to Add Spray Foam Insulation in Your Kitchen

When people speak of fixing up kitchens, they usually mean doing work on the cabinetry, changing the wallpaper or wall paint, updating the counters, adding an island, and so forth. Few associate insulation with kitchens, which is ironic because insulating a kitchen can be highly beneficial for residents.

Why Kitchens Need Insulation

Let’s review the common areas in a house that needs insulation:

  • Attic roof, walls, and floor
  • Behind knee walls
  • Ceilings with unheated spaces
  • Floors with vented crawlspaces beneath
  • Gaps between interior walls

These are the specific spots that make up a house’s thermal envelope which is essentially the shield that separates the indoor living spaces from the outdoors. For a house to stay cool in summer and warm in winter, the thermal envelope must be sealed completely without a hint of a draft.

Kitchens situated at the heart of a house technically don’t need insulation. Still, there could be exceptions, depending on the design of the rest of the house (i.e., the kitchen is right next to the sleeping quarters or above the basement). If the kitchen has one or more external walls, however, proper insulation is a must.

Apart from when it is part of a house’s thermal envelope, a kitchen needs insulation because it helps fortify this specific area of the house and addresses the following needs:

  1. Soundproofing
  2. Mold and bacteria prevention
  3. Pest prevention
  4. Thorough thermal sealing
  5. Structural support

Our Recommendation

At A+ Insulation, we recommend a specific type of insulating material for kitchens: closed-cell, polyurethane spray foam. This is the most commonly-used spray foam insulation in Kansas City and everywhere else. It has a high R-value, which is the metric for measuring heat flow resistance and insulation. When used on strategic areas of a house, closed-cell spray foam can raise the indoor comfort level, from temperature to acoustics, to greater heights.

We’re confident about this recommendation because, as an established insulation company in Kansas City, ; we’ve seen first-hand how well this insulation settles and cures inside walls, ceilings, and crawlspaces. The extra rigidity also helps reinforce the structural integrity of a closed-cell, foam-insulated house.

Closed-cell foam insulation also possesses other qualities that make it the perfect choice for insulating kitchens. Let’s take a closer look at how this type of polyurethane insulation addresses the needs listed above.

Soundproofing

spray foam insulation

The kitchen is hardly the noisiest part of the house (that honor is usually awarded to the rooms where there are entertainment consoles), but once the pots and pans get busy, the racket could disturb the rest of the household. This is especially true when bedrooms are located inconveniently next to or near the kitchen.

Spray foam insulation will do an excellent job of soundproofing a kitchen. While open-cell spray foam is the one that’s more often used to soundproof theater rooms because it absorbs sound better, closed-cell spray foam can give a more or less similar soundproofing output. Closed-cell foam is more impermeable after curing, so it becomes a good sound isolator.

Why can’t you use open-cell spray foam, then, if it is the superior acoustic absorber? You actually can; however, there are other factors that we need to consider besides soundproofing. When those enter the picture, you’ll understand why closed-cell spray foam insulation is the better option for your kitchen. The next section is a perfect example of these factors that you may want to prioritize over acoustics.

Waterproofing with Mold and Bacterial Prevention

Next to the bathroom, the kitchen is the one room in the house constantly exposed to moisture in the air and on the floor. The steam that comes from all the daily cooking, plus the condensation that takes place when the weather turns cold, can seep through the wooden walls and keep them moist for long periods. The moisture retention can also get worse if the kitchen is poorly insulated, to begin with.

Spray foam insulation offers a layer of protection against moisture intrusion. It’s a helpful feature to maintain in rooms with high humidity, such as kitchens and bathrooms.

Where there’s perpetual moisture at home, mold and bacteria can thrive. This is the key concern (along with the premature onset of structural decay) that spray foam insulation addresses in kitchens. By putting a protective layer against moisture inside the wall cavities and stabilizing a room’s temperature, homeowners can prevent mold and bacteria from growing indoors and putting the residents’ health at risk.

Pest Prevention

As briefly mentioned above, closed-cell spray foam turns rigid when it cures. Assuming that it was installed superbly by an experienced company, the rigid, thermal envelope the insulation forms can help keep pests from getting inside and invading the house.

Additionally, building codes state that foam insulation in residential and commercial structures must be supplemented with an ignition barrier. Like most organic house construction materials, spray foam is combustible when exposed directly to flames. To reduce fire hazards in a foam-insulated home, Energy Vanguard recommends that builders must insert ignition barriers like:

  • Drywall
  • Hardboard
  • Mineral fiber insulation
  • Particleboard
  • Steel
  • Wood

These barriers add layers of protection against burrowing pests like rodents and beetles. Of course, wood and insulation are not entirely impenetrable. If given a point of entry, termites, carpenter ants, even squirrels can chew through spray foam insulation and nest within the walls. It’s, therefore, crucial to have a seamless installation that seals off the entire thermal envelope.

Thorough Thermal Sealing

Now that we’re on the subject of thermal envelopes, let’s discuss the insulation quality of closed-cell spray foam insulation. It is denser than open-cell foam, which means it takes skills and experience to ensure that it gets into every nook and cranny of the thermal envelope. This is a concern for your insulation contractor, though. If you hire a competent team like A+ Insulation, proper installation of closed-cell spray foam won’t ever become an issue.

It’s crucial to air-seal the building envelope because you want to keep warm air locked in during winter and kept out during summer. Air leaks through the envelope make your heater or air conditioning work extra hard and consume more electricity, thereby wasting energy and increasing your utility costs. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), effective air sealing and insulation can save a household up to 15% on cooling and heating costs (with an average of 11% total cost savings for energy expenses).

A well-sealed and insulated building envelope also regulates the indoor temperature of a home, improves humidity control, reduces noise pollution and air pollution, prevents insect and pest infiltration — all of which contribute to making a home more comfortable and safe to live in.

Structural support

modern kitchen

Closed-cell spray foam insulation has a very high density compared to open-cell foam. It has something to do with the structure that forms after it cures: open-cell foam is like a sponge, while closed-cell foam is like Styrofoam. The usual narrative is that closed-cell foam adds to a house’s structural integrity because of its rigidity. While this may certainly be a factor that benefits a building, spray foam shouldn’t be used as a remedy for a weak structure. Nor should it be an alternative for proper wall and roofing reinforcements like masonry, wall anchors, and steel bar reinforcements.

When the polyurethane cures, the closed-cell foam insulation becomes a rigid, foam plastic that is highly adhesive. It bonds tightly to the adjacent substrates and holds them together (e.g., drywall). It is so adhesive that it can keep roofs intact and attached to a house despite high winds threatening to rip them off. In a Factory Mutual wind uplift pull test cited by America’s Plastic Makers, roofing insulated with spray foam resisted up to 990 psf (47.4 kPa) of wind pressure with a tensile strength of 25 psi (172.4 kPa).

Essentially, the spray foam held the structure together. This is likely the more accurate depiction of how closed-cell foam insulation contributes to a house’s structural integrity.

Other Locations in the Kitchen to Focus When Insulating

To fully enjoy the benefits of spray foam insulation, the thermal envelope has to be filled, and air-sealing must be guaranteed. Unfortunately, even open-cell spray foam, which is known for its expanding quality, can’t always get into the tiniest of spaces. Besides, other areas need insulation, too, in addition to the walls and ceilings.

Below are the other spots in a kitchen that may need follow-up insulation and air-sealing:

  • Crevices behind the window and door trims
  • Floor areas with a crawlspace or basement below
  • Wiring holes on external walls
  • Basement rim joists
  • Open soffits that are adjacent to the kitchen
  • Plumbing and HVAC vents

Choose the Company that Installs Top-Notch Spray Foam Insulation in Kansas City

The kitchen is arguably the most dynamic room in your house. Everyone will no doubt enjoy any improvement in this room. You can start by insulating your kitchen properly and thoroughly.

You can trust A+ Insulation for this job. We’ve been in business since 2004, offering the best experience possible to our customers in Kansas and Missouri.

We offer a FREE, no-obligation inspection and estimate. Contact us to learn more about our spray foam insulation products and services.